Mesa Verde National Park

Carol Freshley May 30, 2016

There are so many photos of this iconic location one can look at. Along with the photos are excellent explanations of the history, the archeology, and the struggles to save the ancient cultures. Still, we realized we wanted to see it for ourselves. We are not adding any new images to the vast collection already out there. But, we share because we always do and my recommendation is that if you can make it to see for yourself what the ancient cliff dwellings were like you should do so. They are quite impressive in many ways.

This is a classic composition.  There is a tour in progress (people on the right).  The alcove is about 215 feet wide by about 90 feet deep and 60 feet high.  The site includes 150 rooms, 75 constructed open areas, and 21 kivas. … — This is a classic composition. There is a tour in progress (people on the right). The alcove is about 215 feet wide by about 90 feet deep and 60 feet high. The site includes 150 rooms, 75 constructed open areas, and 21 kivas. The construction occurred from about AD 1190 to AD 1280 and was inhabited by about 100 to 120 people.

This is the House of Many Windows (our research suggested that these are really doors).  It can be spotted along the main Cliff Palace Loop.  It is hard to find from across the canyon and each person shares with a new arrival just where to… — This is the House of Many Windows (our research suggested that these are really doors). It can be spotted along the main Cliff Palace Loop. It is hard to find from across the canyon and each person shares with a new arrival just where to look. Using a long lens, a high megapixel and then using extreme cropping . . . can you spot the structure (right in the middle of the photo)?

This is the Hemenway House named after Mary Tileston Hemenway.  She financially supported the first archeological research in the southwest.  While Mary never visited Mesa Verde, this sitememorializes her contribution to our understanding … — This is the Hemenway House named after Mary Tileston Hemenway. She financially supported the first archeological research in the southwest. While Mary never visited Mesa Verde, this site
memorializes her contribution to our understanding of the ancient Puebloans.

This is the Spruce Tree House, also located on the main loop.  In fact, this dwelling can be seen from right behind the bookstore and museum (short walk).  This structure is considered unsafe and tours are not offered of this location. — This is the Spruce Tree House, also located on the main loop. In fact, this dwelling can be seen from right behind the bookstore and museum (short walk). This structure is considered unsafe and tours are not offered of this location.

This structure houses a very interesting and informative museum.  Tom insisted that I go in and look at the dioramas that had been created to show what life was like for the Puebloans during the time period the cliff dwellings were built. … — This structure houses a very interesting and informative museum. Tom insisted that I go in and look at the dioramas that had been created to show what life was like for the Puebloans during the time period the cliff dwellings were built. Very worth it as you can see below.

One of 5 dioramas in the museum.  The bookstore next door is very good and has some really good books on photography in the southwest. — One of 5 dioramas in the museum. The bookstore next door is very good and has some really good books on photography in the southwest.

Of course, there is much more to Mesa Verde than the cliff dwellings.  I found the location to be fascinating in its isolation and seemingly impossible access.  Yet this area supported large communities. — Of course, there is much more to Mesa Verde than the cliff dwellings. I found the location to be fascinating in its isolation and seemingly impossible access. Yet this area supported large communities.

In the spring, the residents of Mesa Verde could have enjoyed great panoramas of snow capped mountains.

There have been many fires on the mesa in recent decades.  The park identifies the fire damaged areas by name and provides the year that the fire took place.  The trees still standing give the area an eerie feeling.  Tom called these … — There have been many fires on the mesa in recent decades. The park identifies the fire damaged areas by name and provides the year that the fire took place. The trees still standing give the area an eerie feeling. Tom called these the 'hugging trees'. I can see them as the 'dancing trees'.

This path leads to the Badger House and very early dwellings that are now covered by structures with metal roofs and walls, making their spaces dreary and dark.  The dwellings, while historically interesting are dismal photographic opportunitie… — This path leads to the Badger House and very early dwellings that are now covered by structures with metal roofs and walls, making their spaces dreary and dark. The dwellings, while historically interesting are dismal photographic opportunities.

I am not a birder!  I don't even know if this bird was the cause of my frustration.  So, here is my story and I am sticking to it.  We got out of our car and headed to the information desk, an outside tented operation.  There wer… — I am not a birder! I don't even know if this bird was the cause of my frustration. So, here is my story and I am sticking to it. We got out of our car and headed to the information desk, an outside tented operation. There were some birds calling back and forth, back and forth. They sounded like they were right above me in any number of nearby trees. I could not for the life of me find a bird. Not a one. They were so, so, so loud. I am calling them Bullhorn Birds!!! It was driving me crazy not to be able to see where the sounds were coming from. I think this is one of them! I will wait for my birding friends to tell me if this bird is capable of making a complex call and projecting it as though it has a bullhorn!! Besides, I like the way this bird parts its head feathers. Very stylish!!

Lovely long curvy drive up and down the mesa.  I can barely imagine how ancient people navigated such terrain. — Lovely long curvy drive up and down the mesa. I can barely imagine how ancient people navigated such terrain.

Thanks for joining us.

Black Canyon

Carol Freshley May 29, 2016

Properly known as Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, the site offers photographers of all types a memorable experience. It presents serious photographers some challenges and great satisfaction if they are pleased with their efforts.

Taken at Pulpit Rock Overlook.  This overlook actually has two points of view and it is easy to reach and there are easy places to set up your tripod.  The Gunnison River is easily spotted here.  Shot taken towards the east end in the… — Taken at Pulpit Rock Overlook. This overlook actually has two points of view and it is easy to reach and there are easy places to set up your tripod. The Gunnison River is easily spotted here. Shot taken towards the east end in the early afternoon as the clouds were building up. This is a wider part of the canyon.

If you look way down into the bottom of the canyon, where the well lit mountains in the background meet the dark shadows on the near wall, you see the Gunnison River.  You can hear the river's roar long before you reach the overlook.  You … — If you look way down into the bottom of the canyon, where the well lit mountains in the background meet the dark shadows on the near wall, you see the Gunnison River. You can hear the river's roar long before you reach the overlook. You can barely see the forceful whitewater rapids. No rafting, canoeing, or kayaking is allowed in this part of the park, especially in the spring when the water is at such a high level.

Taken at Dragon Point Outlook looking westward about midday.

Taken at the Chasm Overlook.  Difficult to capture just how 'far down' that river is!!  At some point in the canyon we read that if the Empire State Building were placed in the canyon it would reach just slightly over half way to the top!&… — Taken at the Chasm Overlook. Difficult to capture just how 'far down' that river is!! At some point in the canyon we read that if the Empire State Building were placed in the canyon it would reach just slightly over half way to the top! I believe that may have been at Chasm Overlook. Can you see how narrow the canyon is at this point? Also, along here the Gunnison River is almost all whitewater rapids.

Taken along the Tomichi Trail in mid-afternoon.  This view is towards the east. — Taken along the Tomichi Trail in mid-afternoon. This view is towards the east.

Tom and I arrived at the park late in the afternoon. After setting up Mellie in the park's campground (30 amp electric provided but no water or dumping), we headed out to explore. The very first stop we chose was Devil's Lookout. We quickly realized that we had a huge challenge ahead of us. How were we going to capture the essence of this place? We had read that photographers often felt that their images were wanting in this regard. Now we understood! The photos we selected (above) were the best we could do in meeting the challenge.

The end of our first day!  Already we were overwhelmed by trying to capture the essence of this wonderful place.  Image take at High Point Lookout. — The end of our first day! Already we were overwhelmed by trying to capture the essence of this wonderful place. Image take at High Point Lookout.

Sunset at High Point Lookout.  I was grateful that we were just miles 'away from home'! — Sunset at High Point Lookout. I was grateful that we were just miles 'away from home'!

Along with trying to capture the true sense of the space, we were challenged by the wide dynamic range. The name, Black Canyon, is a well deserved one. The narrow walls of the deep canyon means that many gorgeous spots have one side of the canyon or the other side in deep shadows. Some parts of the bottom of the canyon only get 33 minutes of sunlight a day! Our eyes can easily discern and span the dynamic range. Even our expensive camera sensors struggle to capture the scene properly. I tried using a graduated neutral density filters (limited success), bracketed shots (sometimes worked) and even some extreme and focused post editing to try and get it to look like I saw it.

Not sure but I believe this is sunrise at Pulpit Point Overlook.

Yes, if you look way down into the bottom of the canyon, where the bright wall meets the dark shadows on the near wall, you see the Gunnison River.  You can barely see the forceful whitewater rapids.  No rafting, canoeing, or kayaking is a… — Yes, if you look way down into the bottom of the canyon, where the bright wall meets the dark shadows on the near wall, you see the Gunnison River. You can barely see the forceful whitewater rapids. No rafting, canoeing, or kayaking is allowed in this part of the park, especially in the spring when the water is at such a high level.

Taken at Rock Point Overlook in the morning sun.

Perhaps I should find some music to listen to while viewing this blog post!  Seeing the photos without the roar of the river just seems lacking in a major way!! — Perhaps I should find some music to listen to while viewing this blog post! Seeing the photos without the roar of the river just seems lacking in a major way!!

Steep canyon walls just add to the sense of grandeur of the place. Dynamic range aside, add what I called rock wall graffiti and you get a wonderful appreciation of what has been created here. The best example of this can be seen at Painted Wall. This massive rock wall rises 2,250 feet above the river. What makes it so interesting are the pegmatite intrusions that run against a dark schist. We saw these intrusions throughout the canyon but none quite as impressive as those on the Painted Wall. They are also viewed at Dragon Point and Cedar Point. Some of the intrusions have names, such as 'Dragon'.

I think this is from Dragon Point.  You can, perhaps, make out the Dragon on Painted Wall.  You might also spot the whitewater on the Gunnison River. — I think this is from Dragon Point. You can, perhaps, make out the Dragon on Painted Wall. You might also spot the whitewater on the Gunnison River.

Pretty sure this is Cross Fissures Point.

We went back to this wall at Cross Fissures Outlook.  It would make a spectacular evening Golden Hour shot.  But, the late afternoon soon was muted by a thick bank of clouds to the west and the light was flat. — We went back to this wall at Cross Fissures Outlook. It would make a spectacular evening Golden Hour shot. But, the late afternoon soon was muted by a thick bank of clouds to the west and the light was flat.

Photograph taken while hiking the Tomichi Trail.  You get to hear the roar of the river the whole hike.  The trail is well marked, an easy hike and there were flowers, birds, lizards and impressive rock canyon walls. — Photograph taken while hiking the Tomichi Trail. You get to hear the roar of the river the whole hike. The trail is well marked, an easy hike and there were flowers, birds, lizards and impressive rock canyon walls.

Another image taken along Tomichi Trail.  Snow capped mountains in the far background. — Another image taken along Tomichi Trail. Snow capped mountains in the far background.

This is Painted Rock (again) with another viewpoint of the pegmatite intrusions.

Photographers often skip the middle of the day's harsh light.  Not a good option at Black Canyon as sometimes that is the best time to capture light looking down the deep canyon . . . can you spot the Gunnison River?  Yep, that little spot… — Photographers often skip the middle of the day's harsh light. Not a good option at Black Canyon as sometimes that is the best time to capture light looking down the deep canyon . . . can you spot the Gunnison River? Yep, that little spot of light! I wish you could hear the roar to go with it.

Taken in the early afternoon as clouds played shadow tag on the park.  As if the natural dynamic range was not challenging enough! — Taken in the early afternoon as clouds played shadow tag on the park. As if the natural dynamic range was not challenging enough!

I have mentioned the river, its roar and the whitewater rapids. How to capture the force one hears and sees is a bit of a challenge. So, I tried taking my camera off the tripod, hanging over a couple of rails, (a quick prayer helps still the heart at this point) and pointing straight down into the river below with my long lens. A pounding heart does not help still the camera!!

Chasm View . . . When you are looking straight down on these rapids you immediately know that nature has not granted mortal man passage.  This is Mother Nature calling the shots.  I can respect that from above, share it with my friends and… — Chasm View . . . When you are looking straight down on these rapids you immediately know that nature has not granted mortal man passage. This is Mother Nature calling the shots. I can respect that from above, share it with my friends and family and be content to keep my distance.

From Painted Wall.  ROAR!!! — From Painted Wall. ROAR!!!

There is more to this park than steep walls, a roaring river, natural wall graffiti and a sense of utter expansiveness. There are lovely paths, lots of flowers, critters and birds of all sorts, deer outside our window in the morning, well signed paths, ample parking, solitude, and so much more. The park only gets about 250,000 visitors a year (compare that with 4.5M in 2013 at the Grand Canyon and 4m at Yosemite). There are no tour buses, hordes of tourists pushing each other around at small lookouts or waiting for parking spaces. It seems to be a well kept secret.

Spring is springing at the canyon.  Lots of plants are budding out.  It reminds me that nature renews, the river rages with snow melt.  I am grateful to be in the midst of such magic. — Spring is springing at the canyon. Lots of plants are budding out. It reminds me that nature renews, the river rages with snow melt. I am grateful to be in the midst of such magic.

The teeniest, smallest, itsy bitsy in the middle of the grandest, most expansive canyon.

I have no idea what kind of bird this is.  But, I tried so hard to get a great bird photograph in honor of my birding friends.  I will call this a "pretty bird' based on Elaine's expert advice on how to name a bird when you are not sure.&n… — I have no idea what kind of bird this is. But, I tried so hard to get a great bird photograph in honor of my birding friends. I will call this a "pretty bird' based on Elaine's expert advice on how to name a bird when you are not sure. This one actually waited patiently . . . Note: Elaine identified this as a Green-tailed towhee. Thanks Elaine!

But, the patience wore thin and soon he was 'out of here'.  This pretty bird lives at Dragon Point. — But, the patience wore thin and soon he was 'out of here'. This pretty bird lives at Dragon Point.

Just hanging out along a path, giving a reason for those walking along to smile.

There are obvious signed efforts to replenish native species of wildflowers.  I would give the National Park Service high marks in this area (and several others).  It appears to be working well. — There are obvious signed efforts to replenish native species of wildflowers. I would give the National Park Service high marks in this area (and several others). It appears to be working well.

Photos like this one seen along the paths to any of the lookouts are hard to pass up.

So, time for a true story.  Those friends who shoot with Tom and me will nod and smile, knowing this is exactly as how it would happen.  Tom and I were headed to Devil's Point Outlook.  It was about 6:20 our first morning out explorin… — So, time for a true story. Those friends who shoot with Tom and me will nod and smile, knowing this is exactly as how it would happen. Tom and I were headed to Devil's Point Outlook. It was about 6:20 our first morning out exploring. Tom says, "I see a photo over there" and heads out off the path into the bushes. I quickly lose him and trudge on to the lookout point. When he finally reaches me he is all smiles. "Look what I got!" OK! Envy overtakes me. Why, oh why, do I stay on trails and not SEE other great opportunities? Anyway, I was determined to get my shot of what we later read is called Dragon's Tongue.

So, the next morning I was back at that outlook.  I had a hard time finding the non-path to the edge.  Tom had stayed behind at Pulpit Rock so I was on my own.  After all, he already had his shot.  I finally spotted two photograp… — So, the next morning I was back at that outlook. I had a hard time finding the non-path to the edge. Tom had stayed behind at Pulpit Rock so I was on my own. After all, he already had his shot. I finally spotted two photographers on an edge of the rock wall facing the wall I thought would have Dragon's Tongue. The brush was about my height and I could not find an established path (I really don't think there is one). When I made it to the site I asked them, "Did I miss the peak light?" They answered that no, I had not but the clouds were muting the intensity this morning. Dang it!! Hats off to Tom, though, for catching the light even before we knew it was a photo opportunity that was not to be missed.

This was taken from High Point looking towards the valley away from the mesa we were on.

There is a 6 mile road that connects the different lookouts.  Each is clearly labeled and the hiking distance to the lookout is provided.  Paths are well maintained, some have signage that identifies plants and animals.  Lookouts have… — There is a 6 mile road that connects the different lookouts. Each is clearly labeled and the hiking distance to the lookout is provided. Paths are well maintained, some have signage that identifies plants and animals. Lookouts have signage indicating unique geological features or history of the canyon. And between lookouts you might be treated to views like the one above! Time to take a deep breath because you will hold it in at the next lookout! But, the very best thing about the road and the ample parking is that we returned to different sites over and over again at different times of day as we checked out the light, trying our best to capture each place in the best light.

Periodically I would spot rock climbing ropes on the wall near an outlook point.  Apparently the leave no trace does not apply to them!  These guys were spotted on a ledge just above the river.  They waved up at Tom.  The park re… — Periodically I would spot rock climbing ropes on the wall near an outlook point. Apparently the leave no trace does not apply to them! These guys were spotted on a ledge just above the river. They waved up at Tom. The park requires that rock climbers get a special use permit and show they are experienced for the rigorous type of climbing the park offers. Not for me!

Back porch of the Visitor Center.  The Visitor Center is small but has more than we need.  The staff is very knowledgeable and we picked up a hiking guide for Ann!!  Thinking of you dear friend!  We picked up a book you may want … — Back porch of the Visitor Center. The Visitor Center is small but has more than we need. The staff is very knowledgeable and we picked up a hiking guide for Ann!! Thinking of you dear friend! We picked up a book you may want to check out, either when you see us or if you decide to make the trip before we meet up. Not the best photo guide I have, but certainly useful (Getting Up Early: The Visitors' Guide to Photographing the Black Canyon, by Vince Farnsworth, ISBN 978-1-62620-816-2).

Arriving at the Visitors' Center from Tomichi Trail.

End of a great trip from High Point Outlook.

There are so many reasons to return to this park and photograph it in a different season and light. My heart is full. Thank you for sharing with us. We think of our friends and family often as we are out and about. I especially remember my mother. She would have reveled in this trip and its posting. She would look at the images again and again, checking every detail. Then she would whip out an email with questions! I miss sharing with her. Sharing with you makes up for a great deal of that 'missing'. I was not expecting that. Thanks for being there. Better still . . . if you can . . . grab your camera, pack lightly and head up to Black Canyon. My hope is that our images will inspire you to make this trip, or any other trip for that matter, and share with other photographers who are looking for good photo opportunities.

Montrose to Silverton

Carol Freshley May 27, 2016

While camped at Black Canyon we took a day trip to Silverton. We had talked about driving through there on the way from Cortez to Montrose. However, the road is deemed by many experienced RVers as being precarious and we are not experienced (yet). Instead, we took what was actually a shorter route out of Cortez to Montrose through Ridgeway. We really wanted to check out both the road over Red Mountain Pass and both Ouray and Silverton. Tom was happy shooting from his familiar passenger side while I drove.

As we drove down off the plateau surrounding Black Canyon . . . looking across at a wonderland!

So green.  So awesome! — So green. So awesome!

Looking down on Main Street in Ouray on our way out of town headed south to Silverton.

The owner of a restaurant where we had breakfast gave us some advice on sites to check out in Ouray.  One was Box Canyon at the Ouray Park.  I envisioned a lovely waterfall with wildflowers . . . Ahem, not so but much more dramatic in its … — The owner of a restaurant where we had breakfast gave us some advice on sites to check out in Ouray. One was Box Canyon at the Ouray Park. I envisioned a lovely waterfall with wildflowers . . . Ahem, not so but much more dramatic in its own way and doggone difficult to capture! It turns out that the waterfall comes down a very steep internal wall. To get to where you can see it you traverse a walkway clinging to the side of a steep rock (above). Across from the walkway is where the swifts build their nests. The sign at the entrance to the park said they had arrived but we did not see any. Yes, that is me out there on the walkway trying to get my tripod set up on what felt like an unsafe place.

Here is one interpretation of the waterfall as it comes from behind the rock.  The sound is frightening and there is water spray everywhere.  I wanted a fast shot to show the drama but simply could get my camera set up to capture the speed… — Here is one interpretation of the waterfall as it comes from behind the rock. The sound is frightening and there is water spray everywhere. I wanted a fast shot to show the drama but simply could get my camera set up to capture the speed and force of the water.

Tom dared look up.  Not me!!  I just wanted out of that thundering crack! — Tom dared look up. Not me!! I just wanted out of that thundering crack!

Streams and rivers are running with a lot of force this spring in Colorado.  I wish I could include the roar for you.  By the time we got to this stream the weather was looking ominously like snow was on the way. — Streams and rivers are running with a lot of force this spring in Colorado. I wish I could include the roar for you. By the time we got to this stream the weather was looking ominously like snow was on the way.

We had a bit of a discussion about this composition.  What is the subject?  The aspen?  The stream?  Yes!  We have too much fun! — We had a bit of a discussion about this composition. What is the subject? The aspen? The stream? Yes! We have too much fun!

When we stopped for lunch in Silverton Tom struck a conversation with these two men who had come up on the Durango to Silverton Railroad.  The guy on the right was doing some work inside the boiler.  They were fine having their photos take… — When we stopped for lunch in Silverton Tom struck a conversation with these two men who had come up on the Durango to Silverton Railroad. The guy on the right was doing some work inside the boiler. They were fine having their photos taken. Tom also asked them about the great train photos on the wall. They told him that the railway has their own photographer and she has great access to all train operations. You can see her photography at durangoexposures.com.

We drove around Silverton.  I was surprised at how rustic it all seemed.  The only paved street is the main one through town.  The railway station actually looks bleak, austere and not impressive.  I wanted COLOR!  Vibrance!… — We drove around Silverton. I was surprised at how rustic it all seemed. The only paved street is the main one through town. The railway station actually looks bleak, austere and not impressive. I wanted COLOR! Vibrance! Well this is what I found. . . .

The mountains in the area have some great color.  I am not a geologist but suspect these are tailings from mining copper, silver and gold in the past. — The mountains in the area have some great color. I am not a geologist but suspect these are tailings from mining copper, silver and gold in the past.

Color reflections in a pond beside the road.

While we were in Silverton the snow started falling in earnest.  All I could think about was the narrow road back! — While we were in Silverton the snow started falling in earnest. All I could think about was the narrow road back!

Uh oh!  The snow was beginning to accumulate.  We were still driving through road construction on the summit.  I am still a desert dweller so I admit to being a bit nervous.  Not Tom, however.  He just clicked away and smile… — Uh oh! The snow was beginning to accumulate. We were still driving through road construction on the summit. I am still a desert dweller so I admit to being a bit nervous. Not Tom, however. He just clicked away and smiled . . .

We made it back to the campground just fine. My nerves settled and we were grateful for the opportunity to explore and share our experience. We also knew that we would not be driving through Red Mountain Pass any time real soon. Thanks for joining us.